Long-form conversations with the surfers, shapers, scientists, and writers who live closest to the sea. New episodes every other Thursday.
A rare extended conversation with the eight-time world champion — about the years she almost quit, the art of staying graceful under pressure, and what she plans to do with the next forty years.
Yuki Nakamura studies kelp forests along the California coast. She is also a regular at Mavericks. We talked for almost an hour.
We visited Bruno Lemaire in his shaping bay in Donostia. He has been making twin-fin boards since 1991 and has no plans to stop.
Halla Stefánsdóttir surfs year-round in Iceland. We asked her why, and she had very good answers.